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hello everyone
since i checked this site religiously before moving here, i figured i ought to share with you my experiences moving and my first impressions here. i've been here (St Thomas)3 weeks now and there are SO many things that even this board didn't really prepare me for. Anyway, the good news is I love it here so far. if you like the beach and water and water sports in general, this is a wonderful place to live. if you're not totally into the beach, there really isn't much to do. seriously, there is very little night life and relatively little to do after the sun sets aside from going out to dinner or seeing a movie. this was a big change for me coming from NYC. not that i wasn't warned of that, but the reality of literally not having anything to do other than entertaining myself has been a little hard to adjust to. my boyfriend and i like to go out and have a couple drinks of course, but not every night, so that's been one thing... i love the beach and love the sun, so it's been great. i've noticed that i rise much earlier and go to bed much earlier so that i can take advantage of the daylight-- plus i'm just exhausted from the heat to be honest so i regularly fall asleep at 10pm (i used to be out until 4am in NYC!!).
the other thing is the LOW pay here and rarely do people offer benefits. i just want some sort of office job/book-keeping type position and it is totally common to offer $10 an hour for jobs like that. so get ready. NYC was obviously very different and i was insulted by my first few offers because of the low pay. however i'm happy to report the cost of living is so low here (i guess it wouldn't be if you were moving from oregon or somewhere else where it's cheap to live) but the rents are really cheap and there are so few things to spend $$ on that i think i'll end up saving more here than i ever could in NYC even though my pay will be so much less. groceries are more expensive, as is gas, but drinks are like $3 each and like i said, the best parts about the islands, the beaches, are free. we got hooked up with a nice 1 brm place through my BFs work so i don't have much advice for apt hunting other than using the Island Trader.
we bought a car once we got here and cars are more expensive than normal. we didn't have one in NYC for obvious reasons so that was a huge expense for us. we got a 2000 Jeep for $8K and i really recommend that. any sort of 4 wheel drive car is a must here frankly. the rains and rough roads really make it necessary. i feel great in the Jeep. driving on the "wrong" side of the road wasn't as hard to get used to as i expected. we were lucky and someone at my BFs job was selling the Jeep, so we got a good deal-- we saw cars for sale that were 1996's with 80,000 miles selling for $8K. yikes. and yes, it is a huge hassle dealing w/ transferring a title and getting insured. expect to waste a day at the DMV. i would NOT recommend not getting a car, you will not be able to get places and the taxis are very expensive, esp if you're not west indian (they get cheaper deals usually).
one things i was mad about is that banks here don't offer the debit/credit cards. they are only debit cards. i'm so used to using my bank card like a credit card, so i have to keep reminding myself to carry more cash or my real credit cards. i also can't call and check my account balance electronically without talking to a bank rep. but that's a minor thing.
one other things is the corruptness of the politicians here. it's no joke. i feel like St Thomas is sold on being just like the US in so many ways but a tropical island. it's very much NOT like the US in most ways from what i can tell. it's legal to drink and drive here for example. the politicians lie year after year to get elected and never follow through (i know, sounds a lot like the US, but worse) so roads are never repairs, public schools are awful (SAT scores here are the lowest in the nation), and there is a ton of embezzlement. there is a "bridge to nowhere" that is literally a concrete bridge that they built very cheaply that just sits on the side of the road (it isn't usable and doesn't take you from one place to another, just sits there) that they built so they can keep the govt funds and claim that they still built a bridge. i dunno, just kind of strange. i wouldnt want to ever to have to use the police here. our friend here works at a bar and there was a bar fight where someone's head was split open and no ambulance showed for over 3 hrs and the man actually died from blood loss due to this. totally scary, and i don't want to seem overly paranoid or worried, since i'm not, but it's just something to think about that i wasn't too aware of before i moved here.
anyway, i do love living here. the beaches and views are more beautiful than i ever could have imagined or dreamed. i LOVE swimming in the 80 degree water and it's so amazing to really be here and live this tropical paradise life. snorkling is awesome, St Johns's is a wonderful getaway... the food is great (esp if you like seafood) but a little expensive. people are friendly for the most part (but BE SURE to say good morning or good afternoon or good evening to the west indians or they really will be extra grumpy and rude to you).... i think i'll be here for a while, for sure. i love the slow pace of life and the relaxed attitude here.
anyway, here's my 2 cents, just from 3 weeks of experience here and i'm sure there are others with tons more experience who will claim that much of what i said isn't necessarily true. i don't mean to be insulting at all, just honest about things that no one told me about before i got here. anyway, St Thomas rocks and i love it.
Posted : September 13, 2004 7:38 pm
I am moving from denver oct 11th (originally from NYC as well) I was wandering if you could let me know about motorcycles or scooter transportation. If their are alot for sale and what type of price range do you see. What about your living situation..... Have you found what seems to be a good part of town.......Do you have suggestions on temporary living???????? Thank you for your time......Maybe we will have a drink to NYC somtime...
Posted : September 13, 2004 8:05 pm
Hey hitting you up again...you sound like you could be an awesome fit for a pos roomie with us if you are interested. I live in NJ 20 min from NYC and the guy moving down with me went to CO State....get back to me!
Posted : September 13, 2004 8:28 pm
It is not legal to drink and drive here.
Posted : September 14, 2004 2:34 am
Molly, I do agree with a lot of your statements especially in regards to things to do. Because of my job I have to move to many different cities with varying degrees of environments. A little trick that I use so that I take advantage of living somewhere new, as well as to keep out of the doldrums is that I make a list of ten must do things for that city. Nothing life changing necessary, but stuff to take advantage of the local flavor. I usually make a few easy and blatant (go to all the beaches,) a few sort of daunting, sky diving over the islands, a few cultural, learn to cook traditional meals, to a few off the wall, drive naked around the island. No, this isn't my list, but just an example. Basically, it keeps things interesting, it gives a location a chance to grow on you, and it will force you to keep an open mind.
Don't think of it as boredom, think of it as a time to recharge your batteries. Something that most people never get a real chance to do in an entire lifetime.
Good luck.
S.
Posted : September 14, 2004 6:26 am
Ric,
i imagine what she meant was that there are no open container laws here. It is illegal to drive when you are intoxicated. Now, Steve, I am not sure if naked drivinig is illegal or not.
Pamela.
Posted : September 14, 2004 12:59 pm
Topic starter
Steve,
great ideas in terms of setting goals like that, i hadn't thought to be organized enough to make sure i take advantage of all the aspects of living here-- seems like a good way to feel accomplished. as a native CA person, i just flocked to the beach, but i should learn more about the cooking, local music, etc.... i'm not upset by the boredom at all, but i know a few others who just moved here who ARE more upset than I am, so i thought i might pass that on to other potential islanders.
Ric,
It's not legal to drink and drive here? i seriously thought it was. i've been told that about the only thing you can get pulled over for is not wearing your seatbelt and i kid you not that every time i've gone to the bar, the bartender says, "you need one for the road?" and pours a drink for us to take with us. i guess it just seems like no one cares if you drink and drive here, much less take the time to enforce any DUI laws... i might add that i haven't noticed hugely intoxicated people on the road, so it must be a more european mentality in terms of drinking reasonably.
Jeremy,
there are motorcycles and scooters here and i've seen rental places. not sure what they cost or where to buy them, but the roads are full of potholes so i'd be VERY careful because you could easily take a fall. i really recommend the 4 wheel drive vehicles as a primary way to get around, but we were considering a motorcycle or scooter as a 2nd "car" for us to use when we need to. i'm not sure, when the heavy rains come, it could be really dangerous. so i'm weary of it. plus many of the roads are REALLY steep and i'm afraid a scooter might not have enough power to handle them. i'm no expert though, so maybe someone else has more advice. as for where to live, i personally love the east end. i wouldn't want to live in town (charlotte amalie) because the parking is really bad there, but the east end/redhook area is great. we live north of that area, and love where we live. just check the VI Daily news and the Island Trader for rental listings. there aren't as many as you'd think. we have a 1 brm for $850. it's most common to get apts that are part of a larger house-- less common to get a place in a condo complex or whatnot.
Posted : September 14, 2004 1:32 pm
Thanks for the post Molly. I am moving down from NYC in 2 weeks myself. I am so tired of the noise and constant stimulation. After 8 years of this lifestyle I feel pretty fried. Do you think the boredom element is adjusting to such a different city? Do you think it will just take some time to acclimate to island time? I am a little bit nervous about this issue myself.
Shawn
Posted : September 14, 2004 5:38 pm
Topic starter
well first of all, there is no real city here. that's something to get used to-- like i don't have a "neighborhood". i live on the side of a mountain up a steep as F*ck driveway that you couldn't get to without 4m wheel drive. i asked my BF what our neighborhood was like before i was there (he arrived 3 weeks prior than i did) and i was shocked that there aren't even any stores within a 5-10 min drive and there are about 5 houses within shouting distance. our apt literally has no locks, just sliding glass doors, and it's super safe and so i never worry someone would break in (they'd never want to deal with the driveway, haha)... so it's just SO different from NYC life. very small town. not small city, small town. even charlotte amalie is really tiny and small town, the main strip is smaller than St Mark's place. you see everyone everywhere-- i saw my landlord at the bank while i was there, the guy who was doing laundry while i was there ended up sitting next to us at dinner the same night, the man who i borrowed a pen from at the internet cafe ended up being someone who i was applying to a job for... the woman who is the bookkeeper at my job ended up being one of my neighbors and i didn't realize it. it's really small town. at least the east-end is. and i was really ready for a massive change of pace and i love the beach and HATE HATE HATE winter, so i feel like i was as prepared as i could have been and ready to leave NYC, but there are still so many things that i hadn't thought about. i guess that's the same as moving anywhere-- there were many things about NYC that i wasn't ready for when i moved there too but you adjust and acclimate and soon enough it feels normal. i love the friendliness here and the relaxed pace and time moves slowly. no rushrushrush like new york. but unless you go out to dinner each night or go to the bar, most things shut down around 8pm or earlier. there is a blockbuster and a kmart and things like that, so you can get what you need, but not much to do to entertain yourself. there's live music at some bars on some nights, but not always. so it's just a big change of pace. but a nice one if you ask me. 🙂
Posted : September 14, 2004 6:55 pm
Molly wrote:
> well first of all, there is no real city here. that's something
> to get used to-- like i don't have a "neighborhood". It's really
> small town. at least the east-end is. and i was really ready
> for a massive change of pace and i love the beach and HATE HATE
> HATE winter, so i feel like i was as prepared as i could have
> been and ready to leave NYC, but there are still so many things
> that i hadn't thought about. but unless you go out to dinner each night or go to
> the bar, most things shut down around 8pm or earlier. there is
> a blockbuster and a kmart and things like that, so you can get
> what you need, but not much to do to entertain yourself.
> there's live music at some bars on some nights, but not always.
> so it's just a big change of pace.
Hey Molly,
Glad you're adapting so very well and finding STT so friendly.
All of the points you raise here are the ones that the long term residents who are our guides and mentors on the board try the hardest to get across to everyone thinking of moving here: it is different, and in ways you'd never dream of.
That's why everyone that is thinking of moving "and spending the rest of their days in paradise" is strongly urged to come here and try it out first, not as a vacationer but as a resident who has to buy food, do laundry, work, pay bills etc. Putting your current stuff in storage and taking a six month lease out down here in a furnished apartment will give you fair time to try it without buying it -- you end up having an adventure that you can recover from without spending a fortune on relocating everything you own and then moving it back later.
Thanks for your very honest and insightful post!
HC
Posted : September 14, 2004 7:41 pm
