Do you know what you are getting yourself into?
Hi Gang ... back again ...
With the pre-relo trip coming up and the relo happening in October, I've been reading all of you guys thoughts and opinions with much zeal.
I DO have a question that keeps nagging at me due to a recurring thought that pops up frequently on the board.
Just recently, JET had a response to a query from someone up in WI (I think) ... and it was the following:
Do you know what you are getting yourself into? Have you spent some time in the USVI?
It's a lifestyle not all people would be comfortable living. It takes some getting used to even if you have resigned yourself to do it.
Here's my nagging question ... what IS it about the island living that I might "be getting myself into?" And what is it about the lifestyle that "not all people would be comfortable living?"
Are we talking climate? ... interpersonal relationships? ... cultural adaptation? ... day-to-day living with not-quite-so-A-number 1-services? (Gov't and otherwise) ... working conditions? ... safety? ... hurricanes and tropical storms? ... animals insects and assorted other creatures?
Or is it just that so many people that you've seen have come there expecting the ultimate in a tropical heaven and then are crushed when paradise comes crashing down on them in the form of day-to-day struggles in dealing with the often non-existant services, etc. that we've come to take so much for granted in the states?
I know that some people just COULDN'T exist for one single day without their daily Starbucks fix ... is that what's meant by a lifestyle not all people would be comfortable with? I'm just very excited to be coming there as I look on it as a real adventure ... adventure, by definition, being a situation where adversity always seems to rear it's head from time to time. And I'm just really curious if there's something very very challenging that I may not be prepared for.
Please fill me in if you can. I, like so many many others who have visited this board, have absolutely FEASTED on the information that you all have so generously posted. What you all provide is really worth a ton of money.
I'll be staying at Ronnie's during the first week in August and hope that somehow I'll get to meet some of the faces behind the wonderful words.
Clay
I'll interweave comments to each of your examples...
**Are we talking climate? ...
Most people get what they expect here, except they underestimate the impact on their lives of hurricane season, whether or not a storm hits (more below). And some people miss the change of seasons terribly. It's in the 80's at Christmas, and not many folks roast chestnuts on an open fire.
**interpersonal relationships? ...
Many people underestimate the impact of moving so far away from the personal relationships they left be behind. To me, this has been the greatest impact of our move.
** cultural adaptation? ...
Again, yes. There are some who can adapt readily, but many find it hard to understand why things are not more like they were "where I came from." In the short term, individual small differences are easy to accept. In the long term, if you have not fundamentally accepted the differences, they nag at you.
** day-to-day living with not-quite-so-A-number 1-services? (Gov't and otherwise) ...
Yes, see above remark as to culture.
** working conditions? ...
In my experience, not so much, but it can be hard to find employment, especially if you limit it to your "chosen" field.
** safety? ...
Again, not so much.
** hurricanes and tropical storms? ...
Yes. Although there has not been a major one since I have been here, the mere spectre of a major storm causes immeasurable stress. Beginning about this time of year, you are more interested in the weather report than any other subject. And when a system comes off Africa at the right (or wrong) lattitude, you start biting your nails and sleeping less. Most of them pass by or aren't that strong when they get here, but you must prepare for a category 5 direct hit each time. It gets old very fast. Late November is welcome.
** animals insects and assorted other creatures?
Not so much. Although there are critters that you don't typically find in suburbia that are common here, and take some getting used to.
** Or is it just that so many people that you've seen have come there expecting the ultimate in a tropical heaven and then are crushed when paradise comes crashing down on them in the form of day-to-day struggles in dealing with the often non-existant services, etc. that we've come to take so much for granted in the states?
For people who say "I went there on my honeymoon and we are thinking of selling the house, throwing our career out the window, and moving to paradise," this is the most serious concern. Paradise it is; but when you have to work for a living, it's not the same. That would apply to any place you could wish to live because you think things will be better. As Erma Bombeck said: The grass is always greener over the sceptic tank.
Hope this helps.
Hi Clay:
Hope you don't mind me adding my two cents even though I know nothing about living on the islands. I found your question so interesting, and wonder the same things myself. I have lived in New England all my 40 something years, and am lurking on this site because I have always hated the cold weather and am seriously considering a move to St. Thomas someday. I guess what I wanted to share is an expression I use quite frequently; "Wherever you go, there YOU are." In other words, many people think that a major move, work change, etc, will make their lives wonderful. But you are who you are. I'm a nervous person by nature and I keep telling my husband how laid back the islands would be and that I would be so much calmer there.....he laughs. And he's right. I'll always be a worrier no matter where I live..."Wherever you go, there you are".....BUT I still plan on making the move someday. For now I'll light my "ocean waves" scent candle and look at my kitchen wall stenciled to look like a beach......and dream.
Theresa
If your happy with where you are, then you'll probably be happy in the VI, if your unhappy now , you'll just bring your misery with you to the VI.
THat's one way to look at it.
When I was living on STX, I met a guy (inhis 40's from New York)who lived in the same condo complex , so we talked one time, and he said that he hated it in the islands because it wasn't anything like he expected. He said he was having problems meeting women and he wasn't fond of black people. He said he was bored and that he hated the island because there was nothing to do. He said he couldn't wait to move back to where he came from. He had been there only a few weeks. I had only been there a few weeks too and I had been having a blast. I had been meeting alot of people and we were ALWAYS doing things like going to the beach, having boat parites, shopping, cooking out, going to movies and sometimes just sitting around or staying home to clean or rearrange my place. So it really depends on what you are capable of doing and whether you have realistic expectations or not. I would have invited that guy to meet my freinds, but he was so negative that I didn't want him around. He was just a miserable person all together.
When I encountered racism on STX, I would just ignore it. People have the ability to adapt to practically anything as long as they tap into their inherent resources to do so.
And since it's a free world to live where you please, then go for it. But, if you don't like living there then move somewhere else, it's no big deal.
M.
Well, here is my dollar. I live on STJ, as most of u know, so my experience will vary alot from STT and STX. I think there are gives and takes. Some people like changes of season to be more harsh but our seasons do change. Fruits and flowers all bloom at certain times and they are very sensitive. The hurricane season is a scary thing since it is eventual that we WILL get hit with one that will be harsh. Whether it is this year or hundreds of years from now, odds are that the islands will be hit hard. We are in hurricane alley. Last hurricane season was my first here and we were lucky. The thing is there was one time that it rained so hard that it almost knocked me to my butt(actually it did more than once) between the rain and wind. It was almost as though the heavens opened up and you were literally swimming on land. And that was a nice one. So it has me worried a little.
Everything costs more here. MAny things you are used to cost 50-100% more. You probably will be paid less to do the samejob unless you are lucky. Insects suck because they live in cisterns and you will use a lot of bug spray unless you like getting bitten on the ankles everywhere you go. Roads are horrible. Right now the weather is pretty uncomfortable, i will get showered and drive 15minutes to work(work is three miles away) and by the time i get there, i have a sweat stain on my shirt from where i put the seal belt across my chest. Tourists can be annoying....as if they own the place, pulling over in the worst places to take pictures on one ways and no shouldered roads.
There are a lot of different insects and animals that you have to be aware of like millipedes, spiders, plants that can scar you, the ocean!!!!, pit bulls, and more. Water is like gold, you cant take long showers or you will be buying a lot of water at 220$ per visit by the water truck. FORGET BATHS. Food spoils and gets bugs and ants rapidly. I keep chips and cookies and anything open in the fridge or freezer. If you leave it out, youll get bugs or itll be stale in hours. I could go on and on.
Now, dont get me wrong, I like it here. These things are just a little annoying. At the same time, the positives out weigh the things that are negatives for me. I can see someone not expecting these things to be bombarded and want to go home.
The whole paradise thing is a bunch of crap. There is no paradise. If you are looking for paradise, dont live here, VISIT. It's only paradise if you have enough money to not have to work. I would pick living here over living almost anywhere in the states but that is my preference. If i do choose to live on STJ for the rest of my life, it is unlikely i will ever own my own house. That is hard for me to deal with in the long term.
I also stay away from drugs and alcohol abuse and it is very easy to fall into those pitfalls.
It takes time for locals to get used to you....when you first get here, you will be a tourist and you will remain a tourist in the eyes of business folk until you get to know people. I still believe tourists are treated too much like chattle but I try to be nice and patient.
The main thing is that YOU HAVE TO BE READY AND OPEN TO CHANGE. You wont change the VI, you have to adapt. If you don't slow down and adapt to island time, you wont like it here. I have slowed down. I find myself taking my time more and waiting for people to go ahead of me. I like the phrase, "no worries". Just slow down and enjoy.
I really don't think tourists see the real island life.
I have always had this problem with people complaining about tourists (not that I in anyway think that is what you are trying to say in your message)...I can see how they could be annoying. However, it's because of tourism that people can live in a location like the VI, seeing how it makes up more than 70% of the VI economy. Just another one of those double edge swords. Kind of off the cuff, but I have to much time on my hands...sorry, slow week in the office.
My thoughts....
what IS it about the island living that I might "be getting myself into?" And what is it about the lifestyle that "not all people would be comfortable living?"
I seem to think like others that this phrase to some extent is generic to anywhere new you are moving. It is particulary true for the USVI because it is a differenct type of living, slower island time way of things happening or not happening. As for being comfortable living here.... well if you are a city person, like lots of stuff happening, like the hustle and bustle, like things to happen fast and well..... well chances are you will have lots of issues with the way things happen here. The people I have met that didn't like the islands reported similar things... one was really adement about golf - and couldn't face the fact that he only had one course to go to on St. Thomas.... really bothered him. Another didn't have the patience to deal with the "getting excepted period" (what Chris mentioned about being treated like a tourist or outsider until you are here a little bit and people know that you are a "gonna be local" :-)... one said he couldn't stand it here because he didn't want to date black women and couldn't find any suffienciently religious white women to date (he was looking for a 7th day adventist) he thought all the white women he met were party animals... this same person said there was too much drinking and bars here for his liking and not enough fast food options.... so it depends on what you are looking for, what you are expecting to find and/or become by living here, and if you read up on what to expect like the things Chris mentioned that someone might not think about (roads, bugs....)
Climate: people get what they expect. It is truly consistent here in terms of sunshine, heat, and from time to time rain. The islands are some of the sunniest places... I think the people who moved here in say 89 or 95 and shortly thereafter experienced a hurricane.... well I don't think they expected that... a hurricane is a hard thing to picture if you don't have the experience, if you think of utter destruction you would be around the right lines.... trees looked like they were burnt and the sun will be bright as any other day when the storm clears.... so I don't think people necessary no what to expect there.. but like any where else that experience natural disasters.... you never really know what to expect
Interpersonal relationships.... you must have patience. If you have any tendencies to not want to befriend people of other races or cultures you will be truly handicapped in terms of being social.
Everything you mentioned actually takes getting used to; making friends, adapting culturally, government holdups, working ethics and conditions.. animals - we don't have to many besides igunanas, birds, mongoose, deer, fish..... insects - maybe I have gotten used to them and so can't report that its that surprising... there are ants, roaches, bees, mosquitos, flies, termites.... nothing to tramatic. Oh little lizards, frogs.. crickets.
I think your statement about expecting a metophorical paradise and getting regular daily struggles affects some people - definately.
Good Luck.
You can read about all this stuff, so you know what to expect in the Settlers Handbook... you can order it from http://www.vitraders.com
--Islander
Hey, I know tourists are important. When they act really stupid, it IS annoying. Wearing swimsuits inpublic(as if they would in their city!), pulling over in the middle of roads to take pictures, walking in the middle of the roads oblivious to traffic, standing up on the coral while they snorkle, and do you need more??? But yeah I understand how important they are but, believe me, they know it. I just wish they brought their brains instead of leaving them in the states.
I don't live in the islands yet, but have visited several times and will be moving there in about a month. All the things said about the islands seem to be accurate. My impression of life in the islands is that it is a lot like life was here in the South in the 1950's. Things move slower than they do most places today. People don't accept you in their circle immediately, but wait to get to know you. Bugs and other creepy-crawley's are in abundance. It's not the sterile environment that Disney portrays. It's not perfect. Like Chris said, there's no such thing as Paradise. I am looking forward to the challenges island life will present. I'm betting that the benefits and pleasures of island life will outweigh the challenges. If it does, then I plan to stay for a long, long time. If it doesn't then when the lease is up, I'll try something else. The sad thing would be to regret not having tried it. Read the board. Read all the books you can. Go visit. If it seems like it's right for you, gamble a bit and try it. When you visit though, don't just look at the tourist stuff. Look at the things and places you will use and go to in your everyday life. It will be different. But different isn't better or worse, it's usually just different.
My take on it, from someone who has moved there, moved back, and wants to move back for good ( I moved away to go back to school, which is coming to a close here in the next year and a half)
And what is it about the lifestyle that "not all people would be comfortable living?"
**I think what most people forget is that when they come to the VI that while it's in the tropics, and it is beautiful, it isn't paradise...nowhere is. Life's what you make of it. Living there is different from vacationing there; I think that most forget that you have to really WORK for a living there, as do most. And doing so isn't always easy.
Are we talking climate?
**That's a consideration. It's hot. And it's hot all the time. Some people are easily irritated at it being 80 degrees on New Year's Day, never seeing snow, or even frost. I was not. I can't stand cold weather, so I was happy as a pig in, well S***. But, something else to consider. Hot in the VI is not like hot in South Florida...you can literally go all summer in places in the states and never feel the heat if you don't go outside. Not everywhere in the VI is air-conditioned. And electricity, if your house IS air-conditioned is expensive, and not many houses have central air conditioning. It's not a matter of IF the power will go out, too, its a matter of WHEN. You can count on it. If those things bother you, you might want to rethink it.
interpersonal relationships?
**Well, those are a consideration, too. If you are close to your family, it's easy to get homesick. That was about the only thing that bothered me. My boyfriend at the time was not willing to move with me, and because of the job offer I got, I couldn't afford not to go. Something had to give, and unfortunately, it was him. Did I have a hard time dating in the islands? No. I met and married my husband there. But I did notice that my circle of friends changed drastically over the several years I lived there because many of them left island in the meantime.
cultural adaptation?
**This was a little hard at first. I had a hard time getting used to things taking so long (as in getting my phone hooked up....5 months and 20 days!), but in retrospect, it was a non-issue. You learn to adapt and in the meantime, you learn to bite your tongue. There are things to get used to, as in lines at the bank taking forever, check out at the grocery store taking forever, repairs are not so timely, and ordering things takes longer, too. But the trade off is that "It's 80 degrees on New Year's Day and I am on the beach while you poor b**tards are shoveling snow and forming icicles off the end of your nose" that makes up for it. Also, learn the unwritten rules of society...when you go into town, dress nice. Dress for the weather, but dress nice. Say good morning, good afternoon, and good night. It really makes a difference, and may even get you a smile instead of someone sucking their teeth at you. I guess what I am saying is "When in Rome..."
day-to-day living with not-quite-so-A-number 1-services?
**See above, and also, have someone back at home with a Fed Ex account that can send you the stuff you REALLY need so you don't have to wait for it to be shipped to the island. Case in point, I had my exhaust system literally rust off my car, and I couldn't find ANYONE who had it in stock, and it would take at least 2 weeks to get it in. I called my dad, had him buy it for me, pack it up and send it Fed Ex. Had my car fixed in 2 days.
Again, as someone mentioned...you learn to adapt.
hurricanes and tropical storms? ...
**Yeah, those pretty much bite the big one, but where in the world is there that there ISN'T some type of natural disaster waiting to happen? Again, if it happens, you pick up and keep chugging along with the rest of everyone else.
animals insects and assorted other creatures?
**I liked that there isn't much in the way of snakes, but the bugs make up for it! Get used to lizards being in your house (a house with lizards has less mosquitoes!), gongolos hanging around...ick,...roaches that are large enough to haul off your luggage and small children, and those blasted coqui's that won't shut up. But again, you adapt.
As for your last question, yes. That's exactly it. It's may be an island, it may be gorgeous, but it ain't paradise when you have to earn a paycheck. You still have the same frustrations in your daily life that you would have state side. You still get sick, your kids will still throw up on you at some point, your dog will still chew on your shoes, the cable goes out, you still get flat tires (probably more often in your life living there!), income taxes, and other nasty little headaches that still nag at you. The difference is that you get all that crap with a fabulous view.
And a big "yeah that" to everything Chris Cody said.
But you know what?
I can't wait to move back.
Hey,
I was told that you got a Chef job from the States and that you might be able to share some info with me. I am planning on making the move in Sept-Oct and would love to have a job awaiting me. Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Drew
Drew are you talking to me?
Thanks everybody for your input. I'm glad to find an affirmation that Island living offers no more challenges than living anywhere else ... just different ones.
And that the biggest challenge to adapting to Island living is being able to deal with overcoming the grandiose expectations that we form from all the beautiful brochures we see.
Beautiful it is, I'm sure ... but the actual day-to-day living entails the basics that you find anywhere else. Work-sleep-eat. Work-sleep-eat.
And much of the disappointment undoubtedly involves the loss of luster that happens anytime we get into the core of something or someplace. DisneyWorld is so very "perfect" ... until we go through the underground tunnels. Restaurants are so very fancy and impressive ... until we work in the kitchen. Hotels are awe-inspiring and posh ... until we're involved in the basic daily grind of their operations. Cruise ships must be "the most fabulous place to work" ... until we have to work 18 hours a day, 7 days a week for months on end.
Las Vegas isn't one big unending party ... when you have to work there.
Washington DC isn't a mecca of historical wonderment ... when you have to work there.
Everything is still THERE ... it's just that it takes on a different meaning when you're part of it on a daily basis trying to scratch out a living.
My personal expectations are slim. My main desire is to become involved in the community and to taste a little bit of the different culture.
Originally, I had thought about moving to Montreal. And had planned to move to Las Vegas. But the Islands caught my spirit ... and so here I come ... ready or not ! LOL ! !
Clay: One of the best pieces of advice I received before moving here was "keep your eyes open and your mouth shut." Pay attention to what you see and hear, ask questions if you want, but do not start any conversation with "Back in Podunk, we would do that differently." I worked with a guy who decided he was going to save the VI government by giving them information on how to run the place. Ha, ha, ha! He lasted 3 months! Read "Don't Stop the Carnival." Be patient. Remember as you watch the sunset that people save all year long for one week of what you get to see every evening. Be patient. Say "Good morning", "Good afternoon", "Good night"- say it first and shock 'em! Be patient. Don't burn your bridges. Enjoy!!!
Thanks Ender ... I'm always open to advice.
It was kinda funny how you mentioned about the guy that was gonna change the VI world ... I've had twenty years in the restaurant business, and it never ceased to amaze me how many people would buy a restaurant because of the atmosphere and the food and the ambiance ... and buy it, of course, because of the crowd of people that came there ... and would then almost immediately start to make changes in it ... and not just subtle changes ... major changes.
Why? ... Why do such a stupid thing? ... Buy a restaurant because of what it is ... and then CHANGE it? ... I could never figure out the logic there. And, of course, inevitably it would fail.
And as far as moving to some place in particular ... if you don't like how it is, then why go there? There are a vast number of people already there ... and if they didn't like the way it was, then they'd leave and find someplace that they DID like. So, who is anybody to think that they're doing ANYone a great favor by changing the way things are?
Could things be better? Of course ! But if they WERE all that much better, then there'd be HOARDS of people coming there and, by default, the place wouldn't be the same place that the people there came to be part of in the first place.
At any rate, I've always been a watcher and listener ... one of the best, I might add ... and I'm just going to enjoy a slow melting into my new surroundings.
Only three weeks til the first exposure ... and I can hardly wait !
My best friend once told me that "life is an attitude and you have to change your attitude to fit the world because the world isn't going to change it's attitude to fit you." Words of wisdom that I try to live by daily.
East Ender,
I read Don't stop the Carnival. It was a great book and you are right for recommending it. Although I cried at the end and was devastated, good for Hermon Wouk for "keeping it real!"
Another book that may be worth reading is "A trip to the beach" by Milinda and Robert Blanchard. It a biography about a couple who moved to the BVI's to open a business. It deals with everything from hurricane's to Tropical shipping. Good for the future business owner but everyone can benefit. You can pick it up at Barnes and Noble in the travel essay section. It too talks about the expectations of living in "paradise" and then the hard reallity check that "paradise" gave them.
Clay,
I loved what you had to say about what we percieve (Disneyworld, hotels, restraunts, DC) and what it really is. Those folks that make it happen are doing the job right because we have gotten to leave life's grind behind for a moment and be pampered, awed, and inspired. That is what it is supposed to do. I appriciate what you had to say about reality and you said it eloquently.
Elle
Hey everyone. I was reading the posts, because, like most people in the States, I have the dream of someday moving somewhere tropical. I even just put a 12' x 8' wall mural in my bedroom of a tropical beach scene so I can pretend in the meantime!
Anyway, One thing I did want to address was the interpersonal concerns. I have only been to St. Thomas one time, a few years ago for a week's vacation with 2 friends. As 3 single women in their early 30's, we were definitely looking for some decent nightlife. We got lucky on the very first night when we went to eat dinner at the steakhouse in Red Hook. The NCAA Tounrament game was on, and we started talking to a 20-something guy at the bar. He filled us in on where to go the following night (The Greenhouse). We met him, and he introduced us to a whole group of people that were locals (transplants from the States). We made fast friends and because there seems to be an "IN" place to go every night of the week, we kinda just followed the crowd. By day 3 we would walk into a bar and everyone was greeting us by name! We loved it! I have lived in Washington, DC my entire life, and although I have a lot of friends, I have never experienced such friendliness from people in such a short amount of time! By the end of our vacation, we were truly sad to leave all of our new friends! I actally met a guy ther my 2nd night out and basically had myself a boyfriend for the week. I always wondered what would have happened had I ever decided to live there.
So, that said, I say go for it! I think anyone who is in their 20-30's, and is relatively outgoing and open to fun will enjoy it there, at least from a social perspective.
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